Hue: Vietnam’s Imperial Heart

I crossed the Perfume River on my first morning in Hue, looked up at the massive stone walls of the Imperial Citadel, and felt the weight of history settle onto my shoulders. This was the seat of the Nguyen Dynasty, the last ruling family of Vietnam, who governed from these walls for 143 years. The scale is staggering—the Citadel encompasses an entire city within its ramparts, with palaces, temples, gardens, and gates that take hours to walk through. I entered through the Ngo Mon Gate, the same entrance that emperors once used, and spent the rest of the morning wandering through courtyards where mandarins plotted and poets composed, where power was wielded and lost, where Vietnamese history was written in stone and blood.

Hue is Vietnam at its most reflective. Where Hanoi bustles and Saigon races, Hue contemplates. The city sits along the banks of the Perfume River—named for the flowers that fall into the water upstream—and the river’s slow current seems to set the pace for everything. I rented a bicycle and rode along the riverbanks as monks in saffron robes walked to morning prayers, as incense drifted from doorways, as the mist lifted from the water to reveal pagodas on the far shore. There is a spiritual quality to Hue that I did not find anywhere else in Vietnam, a sense that the boundary between past and present is thinner here than in other places.

The royal tombs scattered through the hills south of the city are among the most extraordinary structures I have seen anywhere in the world. Each Nguyen emperor designed his own tomb during his lifetime, and the results reflect wildly different personalities. Tu Duc, the poetry-loving emperor, built a serene complex of pavilions surrounded by lotus ponds where he retreated to write verse. Khai Dinh, influenced by European travels, created a tomb that fuses Vietnamese dragon motifs with French Art Deco and mosaic work that rivals anything in Barcelona. Minh Mang designed a symmetrical masterpiece of lakes, bridges, and courtyards that represents Confucian harmony. I visited all three in a single day and each one left a distinct emotional impression.

And then there is the food. Hue’s cuisine is unlike anything else in Vietnam—it is the legacy of a royal court that demanded culinary excellence. The city’s cooks were challenged to create dishes that were both visually beautiful and intensely flavored, and that tradition persists today. Bun bo Hue, the city’s signature spicy beef noodle soup, is a masterwork of complex broth, lemongrass, and chili that makes Hanoi’s pho seem mild by comparison. But the royal cuisine goes far beyond soup—I ate elaborate multi-course meals served in tiny, jewel-like portions, dishes arranged to resemble flowers and animals, flavors layered with a sophistication that stunned me. For about 300,000 VND ($12), I had a ten-course royal lunch that would have cost ten times that in any European capital.

Hue’s scars are also visible. The Citadel bears the marks of the brutal 1968 Tet Offensive, when much of the city was destroyed in some of the war’s fiercest fighting. Bullet holes pock the walls, and entire sections of the Forbidden Purple City were reduced to rubble. The ongoing restoration is impressive and sensitive, but the damage is a reminder that Hue’s beauty has been hard-won. Walking through the partially rebuilt halls, I felt both the grandeur of what was and the sadness of what was lost.

What Makes Hue Different

Hue is Vietnam’s most historically significant city, and it wears that significance without arrogance. The imperial heritage is everywhere—in the architecture, the cuisine, the refined manners of the residents, the gardens that bloom inside ancient walls—but it is presented with a quiet dignity rather than the aggressive promotion you might find elsewhere. The city feels like it is still processing its own history, still deciding what to preserve and what to release.

The religious depth is also unique. Hue has more pagodas, temples, and monasteries than any other Vietnamese city. The Thien Mu Pagoda, sitting on a hill above the Perfume River, is one of the most sacred sites in the country. Monks still live and practice there, and the atmosphere of calm mindfulness pervades the entire city. I found Hue to be a deeply restorative place—a counterweight to the sensory overload of Vietnam’s bigger cities.

Things to Do in Hue

Explore the Imperial Citadel

The Citadel is a city within a city, enclosed by walls 6 meters high and 2.5 kilometers on each side. Inside, the Imperial Enclosure contains the Forbidden Purple City (where only the emperor and his concubines could enter), throne rooms, temples, and gardens. Entry is 200,000 VND ($8). I spent three hours here and could have spent more. Hire a guide for 300,000–500,000 VND ($12–$20) to bring the history to life.

Visit the Royal Tombs

Each of the Nguyen Dynasty tombs is unique. My top three: Khai Dinh Tomb (100,000 VND / $4) for its extraordinary mosaic interior; Tu Duc Tomb (100,000 VND / $4) for its tranquil garden setting; and Minh Mang Tomb (100,000 VND / $4) for its Confucian symmetry. You can visit all three in a half day by motorbike or with a tour that includes transport.

Cruise the Perfume River

Dragon boats depart from the riverfront near the Citadel for sunset cruises that last 1-2 hours. Prices start at 200,000 VND ($8) per person. The cruise passes the Thien Mu Pagoda and offers views of the city from the water. Traditional music is performed on board. I went at golden hour and the reflections on the water were mesmerizing.

Cycle to Thien Mu Pagoda

This seven-story pagoda, the tallest religious building in Vietnam, sits on a hill overlooking the Perfume River about 5km from the city center. The bicycle ride along the river is pleasant and flat. Entry is free. The Austin Westminster car in the courtyard has a powerful story—it carried the monk Thich Quang Duc to Saigon in 1963, where he self-immolated in protest.

Eat Royal Cuisine

Hue’s royal cuisine is served at several restaurants that present multi-course meals in the imperial style—tiny, elaborate dishes arranged artfully on ornate plates. Ancient Hue Restaurant is the most famous, with set menus from 300,000 VND ($12). I ordered the royal lunch and received ten courses, each more intricate than the last. The presentation alone was worth the price.

Explore Dong Ba Market

Hue’s largest market is a sensory experience—mountains of fresh produce, dried goods, fabrics, and street food stalls packed into a riverside warehouse. This is where locals shop, and the prices reflect it. I found excellent dried chili paste and sesame crackers to take home. The food stalls around the market serve some of the best cheap bun bo Hue in the city at 25,000–35,000 VND ($1–$1.40).

Where to Eat in Hue

Bun Bo Hue O Phuong (Hung Vuong Street)

The definitive bun bo Hue experience. The broth is rich with lemongrass and shrimp paste, the beef and pork are generous, and the chili oil adds a slow-building heat that makes you sweat and smile simultaneously. A bowl costs 30,000 VND ($1.20). I ate here on my first evening and immediately understood why this soup has its own cult following.

Ancient Hue Restaurant (12 Kim Long)

Royal cuisine served in a garden setting with traditional music and costumed staff. The set menus (300,000–500,000 VND / $12–$20) include elaborate dishes that recreate the imperial dining experience. I had the mid-range set and received ten courses including lotus seed soup, shrimp paste on sugar cane, and a dessert so intricate it looked like a sculpture.

Hanh Restaurant (11 Pho Duc Chinh)

A no-frills local favorite serving exceptional bun bo Hue and banh khoai (Hue’s crispy crepe, similar to banh xeo but smaller and crunchier). The banh khoai costs 20,000 VND ($0.80) per piece—I ate three. The dipping sauce, a thick peanut-sesame mixture, is what makes it extraordinary.

Lac Thien (6 Dinh Tien Hoang)

Run by a deaf family since the 1960s, this restaurant has become a Hue institution. The menu is simple—banh khoai, spring rolls, grilled meats—and the food is honest and delicious. A full meal costs 80,000–120,000 VND ($3.20–$5). The warmth of the family makes this more than just a meal; it is a genuine connection.

Quan Com Phu Oc Xua (7 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai)

A hidden gem serving Hue’s famous che (sweet dessert soups) alongside savory rice plates. The com hen (baby clam rice) is a Hue specialty that costs 25,000 VND ($1) and delivers flavors far beyond its humble appearance. I stumbled upon this place by accident and returned deliberately three more times.

Where to Stay in Hue

Budget: Hue Nino Hotel ($8–$15/night)

A clean, affordable guesthouse near the Citadel with friendly staff who go out of their way to help with trip planning. Rooms start at 200,000 VND ($8) and include basic breakfast. The location puts you within walking distance of all major sights.

Mid-Range: Pilgrimage Village ($70–$130/night)

A garden resort outside the city center that feels like a retreat. The pool is surrounded by lush tropical landscaping, the rooms blend Vietnamese aesthetics with modern comfort, and the restaurant serves outstanding Hue cuisine. A Grab to the Citadel costs about 40,000 VND ($1.60). Worth the slight distance for the tranquility.

Luxury: Azerai La Residence ($150–$350/night)

A restored 1930s French colonial mansion on the banks of the Perfume River, directly across from the Citadel. The architecture is stunning, the riverside pool is magnificent, and the service is immaculate. Watching the sunset over the Citadel from the hotel’s terrace with a cocktail in hand was one of my most memorable evenings in Vietnam.