Hoi An: The Town That Time Preserved

I arrived in Hoi An on a bicycle, pedaling the flat coastal road from Da Nang past rice paddies and fishing villages, and as I crossed the bridge into the Ancient Town I felt something I had not experienced anywhere else in Vietnam: stillness. The motorbikes that define every other Vietnamese city are banned from the old streets here. Instead, there were bicycles, cyclos, and pedestrians walking beneath silk lanterns that hung across narrow lanes like strings of jewels. The yellow-walled buildings, their paint faded to a dozen shades of ochre and gold, leaned toward each other across the street as if sharing secrets. I locked my bike, walked into the first alley I found, and spent the next five days utterly enchanted.

Hoi An was once one of the most important trading ports in Southeast Asia. Between the 15th and 19th centuries, Japanese, Chinese, and European merchants sailed up the Thu Bon River to trade silk, porcelain, and spices. They left behind a town that blends architectural styles from across the world—Japanese merchants built the iconic covered bridge, Chinese traders constructed elaborate assembly halls, French colonists added their signature shuttered windows, and Vietnamese families layered everything with their own aesthetic. The result is a place that looks like nowhere else on earth, and when I walked its streets at dusk with the lanterns glowing, I understood why over three million people visit each year.

But Hoi An’s magic is not just visual. This tiny town punches absurdly above its weight in food. Cao lau—thick noodles in a small amount of rich broth, topped with pork, greens, and croutons, made with water from a specific local well—exists only here. White rose dumplings (banh bao banh vac), translucent parcels of shrimp, are a Hoi An original. The banh mi here are often cited as the best in Vietnam, and after eating my way through the country, I am inclined to agree. I took a cooking class on my second day and it became one of the highlights of my entire trip—walking through the morning market with a chef, selecting ingredients, and learning to prepare dishes whose recipes have been guarded for generations.

I also discovered that Hoi An has a quieter side that most visitors miss. Cycling just ten minutes from the Ancient Town, I found myself surrounded by rice paddies, water buffalo, and farming villages where life moves at an entirely different pace. An Bang Beach, a short ride further, offers excellent swimming and beachfront restaurants without the development of Da Nang. And the coconut-palm waterways of Cam Thanh, where local fishermen navigate circular basket boats, felt like a different world entirely.

The tailoring deserves its own mention. Hoi An has hundreds of tailors who can produce custom suits, dresses, coats, shoes, and bags in as little as 24 hours. I walked into a shop on a Tuesday afternoon, chose fabric for a linen suit, was measured in ten minutes, and picked up the finished product on Wednesday evening. The fit was perfect, the price was a fraction of what I would pay at home, and I still wear that suit regularly. If you have any interest in custom clothing, Hoi An is the place.

What Makes Hoi An Different

Hoi An is the only place in Vietnam where I could walk for hours without hearing a motorbike engine. The Ancient Town’s pedestrian-friendly streets create an atmosphere that is completely unique in this country—peaceful, intimate, and human-scaled. The UNESCO World Heritage designation has protected the architecture from the modernization that has transformed other Vietnamese cities, and the result is a living museum that does not feel like a museum at all. People still live and work in these buildings. Families still hang laundry across balconies that overlook 400-year-old streets. The preservation is not sterile—it is vibrant and ongoing.

The town also has a creative energy that sets it apart. The tailoring tradition has spawned a broader artisan culture—leather workers, silk weavers, ceramic artists, and lantern makers all operate workshops in and around the Ancient Town. The food scene is innovative, with young Vietnamese chefs opening restaurants that reinterpret traditional recipes with modern techniques. And the nightly lantern market, where hundreds of silk lanterns glow along the riverbank, transforms the town into something that feels genuinely otherworldly.

Things to Do in Hoi An

Walk the Ancient Town at Night

This is the single most atmospheric experience I had in Vietnam. After dark, the electric lights are dimmed, silk lanterns glow in every color, and the Thu Bon River reflects it all. The night market along Nguyen Hoang sets up with food stalls, lantern vendors, and floating candle sellers. I walked these streets every evening and they never lost their magic. The Old Town ticket (120,000 VND / $5) covers five heritage site entries.

Take a Cooking Class

Hoi An’s cooking classes are legendary, and for good reason. Most start with a guided tour of the central market where you learn to identify ingredients and navigate the stalls. Then you cook four or five dishes—typically cao lau, white rose dumplings, banh xeo, and a curry—and eat everything afterward. Prices range from 500,000–900,000 VND ($20–$37). I booked at Red Bridge Cooking School and it was outstanding.

Get Clothes Tailored

Research is key—quality varies dramatically between shops. I recommend Yaly Couture, BeBe, and A Dong Silk based on personal experience and extensive reviews. A custom suit runs 3,000,000–7,000,000 VND ($120–$280), a dress 500,000–2,000,000 VND ($20–$80), and leather shoes 800,000–2,000,000 VND ($32–$80). Allow at least two days for fittings and adjustments.

Cycle to An Bang Beach

Rent a bicycle from your hotel (usually free or 30,000 VND / $1.20 per day) and ride 4km to An Bang Beach. The ride through rice paddies is beautiful, and the beach has a laid-back atmosphere with beachfront restaurants serving fresh seafood and cold beer. I spent several afternoons here, alternating between swimming and reading under a palm umbrella.

Visit My Son Sanctuary

These Cham temple ruins, a UNESCO World Heritage Site about 40km from Hoi An, date from the 4th to 14th centuries. The sunrise tour (departure around 5:00 AM) is worth the early alarm—you get soft light, cool temperatures, and minimal crowds. Entry is 150,000 VND ($6). A guided tour from Hoi An costs 300,000–600,000 VND ($12–$24) including transport.

Ride a Basket Boat in Cam Thanh

The coconut-palm waterways just outside Hoi An are navigated by traditional basket boats (thung chai). Local guides paddle you through the palms, demonstrate fishing techniques, and often break into song. Tours cost 150,000–300,000 VND ($6–$12). I found it genuinely delightful—the guides have incredible boat-handling skills and a great sense of humor.

Release Lanterns on the Thu Bon River

On the 14th day of each lunar month, the Ancient Town holds a full-moon lantern festival where electric lights are turned off and candle-lit lanterns float on the river. Even on regular evenings, you can buy paper lanterns for 10,000–20,000 VND ($0.40–$0.80) and set them adrift. It is touristy but genuinely beautiful.

Where to Eat in Hoi An

Banh Mi Phuong (2B Phan Chau Trinh)

Anthony Bourdain called this “the best banh mi in the world,” and while I do not hand out superlatives lightly, I understand why he said it. The bread is impossibly crispy, the filling combinations are creative, and the whole package costs 30,000 VND ($1.20). I ate here my first morning and returned every morning after. The line moves fast.

Morning Glory (106 Nguyen Thai Hoc)

Chef Trinh Diem Vy’s restaurant is the best place to try the full range of Hoi An specialties in one sitting. Cao lau, white rose, fried wontons, and banh xeo are all excellent. Dishes cost 60,000–120,000 VND ($2.40–$5). The atmosphere is charming, with tables overlooking the Ancient Town streets. Book ahead for dinner.

Cao Lau Thanh (26 Thai Phien)

A tiny local spot that serves what I believe is the best cao lau in town. The noodles are thick and chewy, the pork is tender, and the broth is deeply flavored. A bowl costs 30,000 VND ($1.20). There are maybe six tables and no English menu, but point at what others are eating and you will be fine.

Madam Khanh - The Banh Mi Queen (115 Tran Cao Van)

The eternal rival to Banh Mi Phuong, and some locals argue she is the true queen of Hoi An banh mi. Her version is slightly different—heavier on the pate and chili—and costs 25,000 VND ($1). I ate at both repeatedly and honestly could not pick a winner. Try both and form your own opinion.

Ong Hai (Cam Nam Island)

Cross the bridge to Cam Nam Island for this riverside restaurant specializing in banh dap (crispy rice crackers with soft rice paper) and grilled meats. A full meal costs about 100,000 VND ($4). The setting—overlooking the river with the Ancient Town in the background—is wonderful, and the food is authentic home-style cooking.

Secret Garden (132/2 Tran Phu)

Hidden down an alley and up a staircase (the hunt is part of the fun), this rooftop restaurant serves excellent Vietnamese home cooking in a garden setting. Dishes cost 50,000–100,000 VND ($2–$4). I had the best ca kho to (caramelized fish in clay pot) of my trip here. The view over the Ancient Town rooftops at sunset is special.

Where to Stay in Hoi An

Budget: Tribee Bana Hostel ($6–$12/night)

A stylish hostel with dorm beds from 150,000 VND ($6) and a social atmosphere. The pool is a huge bonus in Hoi An’s heat. Located a 10-minute walk from the Ancient Town, which keeps the price down while keeping you close to the action.

Mid-Range: Allegro Hoi An ($70–$120/night)

My pick for the best value in Hoi An. Beautiful rooms, an inviting pool, excellent breakfast, and a five-minute walk to the Ancient Town. The staff were exceptional—they arranged cooking classes, restaurant bookings, and bicycle rentals without my having to research anything.

Luxury: Anantara Hoi An Resort ($150–$350/night)

Right on the Thu Bon riverfront in the Ancient Town, this resort blends colonial architecture with modern luxury. The riverside pool is beautiful, the spa uses local ingredients, and the location means you step out the door into the heart of the old streets. The on-site restaurant serves refined Vietnamese cuisine with views of the river.