Why Is Hoi An Vietnamโs Most Magical Town?
Hoi An cast its spell on me within the first ten minutes.
The Arrival
Lanterns, ancient shophouses, the smell of cao lau drifting over the river โ Hoi An announces itself the moment you step into the old town.
Hoi An is a former trading port that peaked between the 15th and 19th centuries, when it served as the most important commercial hub in Southeast Asia. Japanese, Chinese, Indian, Dutch, French, and Portuguese merchants all maintained a presence here, and their architectural legacy survives in an Ancient Town that UNESCO inscribed as a World Heritage Site in 1999. Unlike many UNESCO sites, Hoi Anโs old town is not a museum โ people live here, eat here, worship in these temples, and run businesses from these centuries-old shophouses.
My first evening, I followed the crowds to the night market along Nguyen Hoang Street. Paper lanterns dangled overhead as vendors sold everything from banh mi to custom-painted fans. I ate a 15,000 VND ($0.60) bowl of cao lau โ Hoi Anโs signature noodle dish, which can only be made here because it requires water from a specific local well โ and thought about all the travelers who had eaten on these same streets over the past five centuries.
What makes Hoi An dangerous for travelers is not crime or traffic or scams. Itโs the fact that youโll arrive planning to stay two nights and leave five days later with a suitcase full of tailored suits and a serious reconsideration of your life back home. This town has a gravitational pull that is difficult to resist.
I was supposed to stay three days. I stayed six.
What Makes Hoi An Different From Anywhere Else in Vietnam?
Hoi An occupies a unique position in Vietnamโs travel landscape. It is both deeply historic and highly accessible, both authentically Vietnamese and profoundly international in its heritage. No other Vietnamese city blends Chinese assembly halls, Japanese bridges, French colonial facades, and Vietnamese tube houses within a few walkable blocks. The result is a town that feels like it belongs to the entire world.
The tailoring industry sets Hoi An apart from any other destination Iโve visited anywhere. The town has over 400 tailoring shops, many staffed by artisans whose skills have been passed down through generations. You can walk in on Monday morning with a photo from a magazine, get measured, and pick up a finished custom suit on Tuesday afternoon. The quality ranges from mediocre to genuinely world-class, and even the high-end shops charge a fraction of what youโd pay in London or New York.
Then thereโs the food. Hoi An has three signature dishes found nowhere else in Vietnam โ cao lau (thick noodles with pork, herbs, and crispy croutons), white rose dumplings (delicate shrimp dumplings steamed in rice paper), and com ga (Hoi An-style chicken rice with turmeric). Add to this one of Vietnamโs best cooking class scenes, and Hoi An becomes a serious culinary destination in its own right. The cooking classes here are not just tourist activities โ theyโre genuine education in Vietnamese cuisine, often including a market visit and a boat ride to an herb garden.
What To Explore
Ancient town tickets, custom tailoring, cooking classes, lantern festivals, and a beach twenty minutes away by bicycle โ Hoi An has more layers than almost anywhere in Vietnam.
What Are the Best Things to Do in Hoi An?
Whatโs Included in the Ancient Town Ticket?
The Hoi An Ancient Town requires a ticket for entry to specific heritage sites within the old quarter โ the streets themselves are free to walk. The ticket costs 120,000 VND ($4.80) and grants access to five of the townโs heritage sites, including assembly halls, old houses, museums, and the Japanese Covered Bridge. Tickets are sold at booths at the main entry points and are checked at individual sites.
My recommendation: use your five stamps on the Japanese Covered Bridge, the Fujian Assembly Hall, the Tan Ky Old House, the Museum of Trade Ceramics, and the Cantonese Assembly Hall. These five give you the most representative cross-section of Hoi Anโs multicultural heritage.
Is the Japanese Covered Bridge Worth the Hype?
The Japanese Covered Bridge (Chua Cau) is Hoi Anโs most iconic structure โ a 400-year-old covered wooden bridge built by the Japanese merchant community in the 16th century. It connects the Japanese and Chinese quarters of the old town and houses a small temple dedicated to the deity who controls storms. The bridge is beautiful but small, and during peak hours itโs packed with tourists posing for photos.
Access: Requires one stamp from your Ancient Town ticket. Visit at dawn (before 7:00 a.m.) or dusk for the best light and smallest crowds. The bridge looks its absolute best reflected in the river at sunset, and this view is available without using a ticket โ just stand on the riverbank.
Should I Take a Cooking Class in Hoi An?
A cooking class in Hoi An was the highlight of my entire central Vietnam trip. Most classes begin with a boat ride to Tra Que vegetable village or a guided tour of the central market, where youโll learn to identify Vietnamese herbs like rau ram (Vietnamese coriander) and ngo gai (sawtooth herb). Then you move to an outdoor kitchen โ often riverside โ to prepare four to five dishes from scratch.
I took a morning class that covered cao lau, white rose dumplings, banh xeo, and mango salad. The instructor broke down the techniques with patience and humor, and I came away genuinely able to recreate the dishes at home. Expect to pay 600,000-1,000,000 VND ($24-40) per person for a half-day class including market tour and lunch. Browse and book Hoi An cooking classes on GetYourGuide โ book at least a day ahead during peak season.
How Does Tailoring Work in Hoi An?
Hereโs how to approach Hoi An tailoring without regrets. First, know what you want. Bring photos โ ideally from multiple angles โ of the garment youโre after. Second, choose your shop carefully. Yaly Couture, A Dong Silk, and Bebe are among the most established, but quality varies even within the same shop depending on which tailor handles your order.
Typical prices:
- Menโs two-piece suit: 2,500,000-6,000,000 VND ($100-240)
- Womenโs dress: 1,000,000-3,000,000 VND ($40-120)
- Custom shirt: 400,000-800,000 VND ($16-32)
- Winter coat: 2,000,000-5,000,000 VND ($80-200)
My process: I ordered a linen suit and two shirts on my first morning. First fitting was that evening, second fitting the next morning, and I picked up the finished garments on day three. Always insist on at least two fittings. If something doesnโt look right, speak up โ a good tailor wants to get it right. Pay a deposit (usually 50%) upfront and the balance upon pickup. Most shops can ship internationally if you run out of luggage space.
Can I Cycle to An Bang Beach?
Cycling to An Bang Beach is one of Hoi Anโs greatest pleasures. The ride from the Ancient Town takes about 20 minutes on flat roads that cut through rice paddies and small villages. Rent a bicycle from your hotel (usually 30,000 VND / $1.20 per day) and follow the signs. The route is safe, scenic, and impossible to get lost on.
An Bang Beach itself is a beautiful stretch of golden sand lined with beach restaurants and bars. Rent a sun lounger for 50,000 VND ($2) at one of the beachfront restaurants and alternate between swimming and eating fresh seafood. The beach is less developed than My Khe in Da Nang, which is part of its charm. Soul Kitchen and La Plage are two excellent beachfront spots for lunch and drinks.
When Is the Lantern Full Moon Festival?
The Hoi An Lantern Festival occurs on the 14th day of each lunar month. On these evenings, the Ancient Town switches off all electric lights, and the streets and river glow entirely by candlelight and paper lanterns. Locals release flower lanterns onto the Thu Bon River, creating a slow-moving carpet of light on the water. Traditional music and dance performances take place at various points around the old town.
Cost: Free to attend, though floating lanterns cost 10,000-20,000 VND ($0.40-0.80) to release on the river. This is one of the most atmospheric events Iโve experienced anywhere in Asia. If your dates are flexible, plan your Hoi An visit to coincide with a full moon night. Check a lunar calendar before booking.
Where Should I Eat in Hoi An?
Cao Lau Thanh โ The Definitive Cao Lau
Address: 26 Thai Phien Street
Cao lau is Hoi Anโs most important dish, and Thanh serves what I consider the best version in town. The thick, chewy noodles (soaked in water from Ba Le Well, according to tradition) are topped with sliced pork, herbs, bean sprouts, and crispy won ton croutons, then doused with a modest amount of rich broth. A bowl costs 30,000 VND ($1.20). The restaurant is a simple shophouse โ no frills, just generations of expertise.
Banh Mi Phuong โ Vietnamโs Most Famous Banh Mi
Address: 2B Phan Chu Trinh Street
Anthony Bourdain called it the best banh mi in the world, and the line out the door suggests many agree. Banh Mi Phuongโs sandwiches are stuffed with a dizzying array of fillings โ pate, cold cuts, grilled pork, fried egg, cheese โ and cost 30,000-50,000 VND ($1.20-2). The bread has a shatteringly crisp crust that Da Nang and Saigon versions canโt match. Go at 10:00 a.m. to avoid the lunch rush.
Morning Glory Restaurant โ Refined Street Food
Address: 106 Nguyen Thai Hoc Street
Run by celebrity chef Trinh Diem Vy, Morning Glory reimagines Vietnamese street food in a sit-down setting. The white rose dumplings are delicate and perfect, the mi quang is rich and complex, and the fried wonton appetizer is addictive. Mains run 80,000-150,000 VND ($3.20-6). Reservations recommended for dinner, especially in peak season. This is the place to bring someone whoโs skeptical about Vietnamese food.
Com Ga Ba Buoi โ Hoi An Chicken Rice
Address: 22 Phan Chu Trinh Street
Hoi An chicken rice is a masterwork of simplicity โ turmeric-tinted rice cooked in chicken stock, served with shredded poached chicken, fresh herbs, pickled onion, and chili sauce. Ba Buoi has been serving this dish for decades, and the quality never wavers. A plate costs 35,000 VND ($1.40). The papaya salad side dish is essential.
Madam Khanh โ The Banh Mi Queen
Address: 115 Tran Cao Van Street
If Banh Mi Phuong has the Bourdain endorsement, Madam Khanh has the local loyalty. Many Hoi An residents consider this the superior banh mi. The bread is lighter, the fillings are layered with more nuance, and the chili sauce has a depth that lingers. A sandwich costs 25,000-40,000 VND ($1-1.60). Open from morning until they run out โ usually by early afternoon.
Cargo Club โ Riverside Dining
Address: 107-109 Nguyen Thai Hoc Street
For a more upscale meal with a river view, Cargo Club delivers excellent Vietnamese and French fusion cuisine on a balcony overlooking the Thu Bon. The grilled seafood platter is outstanding, and the patisserie section serves the best pastries in town. Mains run 150,000-300,000 VND ($6-12). Come for sunset โ the view of the river and Ancient Town from the upper floor is one of Hoi Anโs best.
Where to Stay
Rice paddy eco-lodges, riverfront resorts, and boutique guesthouses โ Hoi An accommodates every budget and every travel style.
Where Should I Stay in Hoi An?
Budget: Tribee Bana Hostel
A stylish hostel with a pool, communal kitchen, and comfortable dorm beds from 120,000 VND ($5) and private rooms from 400,000 VND ($16). Located a 10-minute walk from the Ancient Town, which puts you close enough to walk but far enough to escape the tourist density. Check availability on Booking.com.
Mid-Range: Hoi An Eco Lodge
A beautiful eco-friendly property set among rice paddies, a 10-minute bicycle ride from the Ancient Town. Rooms from 1,200,000 VND ($48) per night include breakfast and free bicycle rental. The pool overlooks rice fields, and the silence is restorative after the Ancient Townโs bustle. This was my pick and I cannot recommend it highly enough. Book on Booking.com.
Luxury: Anantara Hoi An Resort
Positioned directly on the Thu Bon riverfront with views into the Ancient Town, Anantara combines colonial-era elegance with modern luxury. Rooms from 4,500,000 VND ($180) per night. The riverside pool, cooking school, and spa are all exceptional. You can step out the door and be in the Ancient Town within two minutes. Book on Booking.com.
Mid-Range Alternative: Little Hoi An Boutique Hotel
A charming boutique property with a pool, free bicycle rental, and rooms from 1,000,000 VND ($40) per night. The breakfast includes fresh pho and banh mi made to order. Excellent location between the Ancient Town and An Bang Beach. Book on Booking.com.
Beach Option: An Bang Seaside Village
If you prioritize beach access over Ancient Town proximity, this An Bang Beach property offers rooms from 1,400,000 VND ($56) per night with direct beach access. The Ancient Town is a 20-minute bicycle ride away. Morning yoga sessions on the beach are included. Book on Booking.com.
Before You Go
Timing your visit around the lantern festival, what to bring for tailoring, and why you should always allow more days than you plan.
Scottโs Pro Tips for Visiting Hoi An
When Is the Best Time to Visit?
February through August offers the best weather โ warm, mostly dry, and ideal for both Ancient Town wandering and beach days. May through July can be hot (35 degrees C and above), but the beaches compensate. September through November brings serious flooding risk โ the Ancient Town regularly floods knee-to-waist deep during this period. December and January are cooler and drier, with occasional chilly days.
How Do I Get Around?
Bicycles are the best way to experience Hoi An. Most hotels provide free rentals or charge 30,000 VND ($1.20) per day. The town is flat and compact, and cycling allows you to explore rice paddies, fishing villages, and An Bang Beach without the cost or environmental impact of motorbikes. For longer distances, Grab works but options are limited compared to Da Nang โ you may wait 5-10 minutes for a driver.
What About Money and Payments?
ATMs are available along the main tourist streets and at the central market area. Many Ancient Town shops and restaurants accept credit cards, but market vendors and street food stalls are cash-only. Tailoring shops accept cards but may offer a cash discount (ask). Withdraw enough cash for the day each morning โ ATM lines can be long in the evenings.
Is Hoi An Safe?
Hoi An is extremely safe. It feels more like a small town than a city, and violent crime is essentially nonexistent. The main โdangersโ are spending too much money on tailoring, sunburn at An Bang Beach, and cyclists who donโt look where theyโre going. During flood season (October-November), check weather advisories โ flash flooding can happen quickly.
Travel insurance is still wise. SafetyWing covers medical emergencies and trip interruptions, which is worth having in case flooding disrupts your travel plans during shoulder season.
What Should I Pack?
Light, breathable clothing for the heat. A rain jacket during shoulder season. Comfortable walking shoes for Ancient Town cobblestones. Sunscreen and a hat for beach days. If you plan to get clothes tailored, bring reference photos on your phone and any garment you want replicated โ some tailors can copy an existing item precisely. A small backpack works better than a shoulder bag when cycling.
Cultural Tips
Hoi An is a sacred and historic space. Remove shoes at temples and assembly halls. Dress modestly in the Ancient Town โ particularly when visiting places of worship. The lantern sellers can be persistent; a firm โno, thank youโ works. When buying from vendors, negotiate gently โ aggressive bargaining is considered rude here. Learn to say โbao nhieuโ (how much?) โ it shows respect and usually gets you a smile.
Stay Updated on Hoi An Travel Tips
Want my complete Hoi An Tailoring Guide โ with shop reviews, fabric tips, and a negotiation script? Drop your email below and Iโll send it free, along with my monthly central Vietnam travel updates.
Frequently Asked Questions About Hoi An
How many days do I need in Hoi An?
Three days is the sweet spot. Day one for the Ancient Town exploration and placing your tailoring orders. Day two for a cooking class in the morning and An Bang Beach in the afternoon. Day three for bicycle exploring through the countryside and picking up your finished garments. Four to five days allows for a Cham Islands day trip, deeper village exploration, and the kind of aimless wandering that Hoi An rewards so generously.
Is Hoi An too touristy?
The Ancient Town center is heavily touristed, yes โ particularly the area around the Japanese Covered Bridge and the night market. But the magic is real. Those lanterns, those buildings, that river at sunset โ no amount of tourism erases their beauty. And stepping just 10 minutes outside the center by bicycle reveals a completely different, authentically rural Vietnam of rice paddies, water buffalo, and village life that most tourists never see.
When is the lantern full moon festival?
The Hoi An Lantern Festival happens on the 14th day of each lunar month (the full moon). On these nights, the Ancient Town turns off electric lights, and the streets and river glow entirely by lantern and candlelight. Itโs extraordinary and worth planning your trip around. Check a lunar calendar for exact dates โ the festival does not follow the Western calendar.
Is it safe to swim at An Bang Beach?
Yes, from February through August when conditions are generally calm and warm. Lifeguards are present during swimming season. From September through January, rough seas and strong currents can make swimming dangerous โ always check conditions and swim near lifeguard stations. Beach restaurants rent chairs and umbrellas for 50,000 VND ($2), and most will let you use them free if you order food or drinks.
How do I get from Hoi An to Hue?
Private car transfer takes about 3 hours via the scenic Hai Van Pass and costs 800,000-1,200,000 VND ($32-48). Public buses run regularly for about 120,000 VND ($5). The train from Da Nang (30 minutes from Hoi An) to Hue is a scenic option costing 70,000-200,000 VND ($3-8). Book a private transfer or Hai Van Pass tour on GetYourGuide for the most comfortable experience.
Should I get clothes tailored in Hoi An?
Absolutely. Hoi An is world-famous for its tailoring for good reason. The key is managing expectations and choosing wisely. Stick to reputable shops, bring detailed reference photos, insist on at least two fittings, and donโt rush the process. A custom suit starts around 2,500,000 VND ($100), while dresses start around 1,000,000 VND ($40). The results, when done well, rival tailoring costing five to ten times more in Western cities.