Ho Chi Minh City: The City That Never Sleeps

I landed in Saigon at midnight, and the city was wide awake. The taxi from Tan Son Nhat airport dove straight into a river of motorbikes, their headlights streaking through humid air like fireflies. By the time I reached my hotel in District 1, I could hear music from three different bars, smell pho simmering at a street stall that had no intention of closing, and see groups of friends gathered on tiny plastic chairs around portable tables, laughing and toasting with cans of Saigon beer. I dropped my bags, walked outside, and did not go to sleep until 3:00 AM. That was my introduction to Ho Chi Minh City, and it set the tone for everything that followed.

This city is velocity. It is nine million people compressed into an urban space that throbs with ambition, appetite, and noise. Motorbikes carry entire families, towering loads of goods, cages of live chickens, and improbably long pieces of furniture. Vendors push carts loaded with tropical fruit down streets lined with French colonial architecture. Glass skyscrapers rise behind century-old pagodas. The contradictions are not jarring—they are the point. Ho Chi Minh City does not choose between old and new. It stacks them on top of each other and dares you to keep up.

I have been to many cities that claim to have the best street food, but Saigon makes the strongest case I have encountered. The com tam (broken rice) alone could sustain me indefinitely—grilled pork chops, a fried egg, pickled vegetables, and fish sauce, all served on a bed of fractured rice grains for about 40,000 VND ($1.60). Banh mi vendors operate on every block, each with a slightly different recipe for the perfect sandwich. And the coffee culture here is extraordinary—iced ca phe sua da (Vietnamese iced coffee with condensed milk) is as essential to the Saigon experience as the motorbikes.

What surprised me most was the city’s emotional depth. The War Remnants Museum is one of the most powerful places I have ever visited—it presents the Vietnam War (which Vietnamese call the American War) with unflinching honesty and left me sitting on a bench outside, processing, for twenty minutes afterward. The Cu Chi Tunnels, a short drive north, bring history to life in a way that is both fascinating and deeply humbling. And then, within the same afternoon, I was drinking a cocktail on a rooftop bar watching the sunset turn the Saigon River gold, and the juxtaposition of horror and beauty felt like the city’s central truth.

Saigon is not a city you admire from a distance. It demands participation. You will eat on the sidewalk, you will ride on the back of a motorbike, you will bargain in markets, you will sweat through your shirt, and you will love every minute of it. By my third day, I understood why so many travelers who come for a week end up staying for a month. The city gets under your skin, and it does not let go.

What Makes Ho Chi Minh City Different

Where Hanoi is contemplative, Ho Chi Minh City is explosive. The southern capital operates on a completely different frequency—faster, louder, more commercially aggressive, and somehow also more welcoming. Saigon’s energy is entrepreneurial. Everyone seems to be running a business, inventing a dish, or opening a cafe. The startup culture is booming, the restaurant scene evolves weekly, and the nightlife runs until dawn.

But what makes the city truly special is its warmth. Despite the chaos, I found Saigonese people to be among the friendliest I have met anywhere in the world. Complete strangers offered me directions, invited me to share their table, and insisted on paying for my coffee. There is a generosity of spirit here that cuts through the commercial hustle, and it made me feel at home in a city of millions where I knew no one.

Things to Do in Ho Chi Minh City

Visit the War Remnants Museum

This is not an easy visit, but it is an essential one. The museum documents the Vietnam War through photographs, military equipment, and first-person accounts that are harrowing and illuminating. The Agent Orange exhibit is particularly devastating. Entry is 40,000 VND ($1.60). I recommend going first thing in the morning when it is less crowded and you have emotional space to process what you see.

Tour the Cu Chi Tunnels

Located about 70km northwest of the city, this vast tunnel network was used by Viet Cong soldiers during the war. You can crawl through widened sections, see trap mechanisms, and gain an appreciation for the extraordinary conditions endured. Most half-day tours cost 300,000–500,000 VND ($12–$20) including transport. I found the Ben Duoc site less touristy than Ben Dinh.

Explore Ben Thanh Market

This iconic covered market is chaotic, colorful, and overwhelming in the best way. The daytime market sells everything from fabric to electronics to dried seafood. After 6:00 PM, the night market takes over the surrounding streets with food stalls and live cooking. Bargain hard—start at 40% of the first price offered. I bought excellent Vietnamese coffee beans here for 150,000 VND ($6) per 500g.

Walk Through Cho Lon (Chinatown)

District 5’s Chinatown is the largest in Southeast Asia and feels like a different city entirely. Binh Tay Market is the commercial heart, with wholesale goods stacked to the ceiling. The Thien Hau Temple is stunning—incense coils hang from the ceiling like giant spirals. I spent a full afternoon here and barely scratched the surface.

Climb the Saigon Skydeck

The Bitexco Financial Tower’s observation deck on the 49th floor offers 360-degree views of the sprawling city. Entry is 200,000 VND ($8). I went just before sunset and watched the city transition from daytime chaos to a glittering nightscape. The cafe on the observation level serves decent cocktails.

Catch Sunset at a Rooftop Bar

Saigon has one of the best rooftop bar scenes in Asia. The Chill Skybar on the 26th floor of AB Tower and Saigon Saigon Bar atop the Caravelle Hotel are my favorites. Cocktails run 200,000–350,000 VND ($8–$14), which is the one area where Saigon approaches Western prices. Worth it for the views.

Where to Eat in Ho Chi Minh City

Com Tam Ba Ghien (84 Dang Van Ngu, Phu Nhuan District)

The broken rice here is legendary. A plate of com tam with grilled pork, a fried egg, and all the fixings costs 45,000 VND ($1.80). The pork is marinated until it practically melts and the caramelized edges are addictive. There is always a line, which moves fast. I ate here three times in a single week.

Banh Mi Huynh Hoa (26 Le Thi Rieng, District 1)

The most famous banh mi in Saigon, and possibly in the world. At 47,000 VND ($1.90), it is pricier than average but stuffed with an absurd amount of cold cuts, pate, and fresh vegetables. The line starts forming at 2:30 PM (they open around 3:30 PM). I arrived at 4:00 PM, waited fifteen minutes, and it was absolutely worth it.

Pho Le (413-415 Nguyen Trai, District 5)

While Hanoi claims pho supremacy, Saigon’s version—sweeter, loaded with herbs, served with a massive plate of accompaniments—is its own masterpiece. Pho Le does the southern style perfectly. A large bowl costs 75,000 VND ($3). I piled my bowl so high with bean sprouts and basil that you could barely see the noodles.

Quan Ut Ut (168 Vo Van Kiet, District 4)

When I needed a break from Vietnamese food (rare, but it happens), this American-style BBQ joint run by expats delivered. Smoked ribs, craft beer, and a view of the Saigon River. A full rack costs about 400,000 VND ($16). It is a splurge by local standards but excellent quality.

Lunch Lady (23 Hoang Sa, District 1)

Made famous by Anthony Bourdain, this stall serves a different noodle soup every day of the week. The cook, Nguyen Thi Thanh, has been running the operation for decades. A bowl costs 50,000–70,000 VND ($2–$2.80). I returned on three different days and got three completely different soups. Each one was outstanding.

Hu Tieu Nam Vang Thanh Xuan (Ton That Thiep, District 1)

Hu tieu is Saigon’s answer to pho—a clear pork broth with rice noodles, shrimp, pork slices, and quail eggs. This place has been serving it since the 1950s. A bowl costs 55,000 VND ($2.20). I ordered the dry version (served with broth on the side) and the concentrated flavors were incredible.

Where to Stay in Ho Chi Minh City

Budget: The Common Room Project ($8–$15/night)

A beautifully designed hostel in District 1 with a social atmosphere and excellent coffee bar downstairs. Dorm beds from 200,000 VND ($8), private rooms from 500,000 VND ($20). The rooftop area is great for meeting other travelers. Staff are young, enthusiastic, and full of local tips.

Mid-Range: Liberty Central Saigon Citypoint ($60–$100/night)

My preferred District 1 base. The rooftop pool is a lifesaver after long days walking in the heat, the rooms are modern and well-equipped, and you can walk to Ben Thanh Market, the War Remnants Museum, and the best banh mi stalls in the city. Breakfast included.

Luxury: The Reverie Saigon ($180–$400/night)

This hotel is extravagant in a way that feels distinctly Saigon—bold, glamorous, and unapologetic. The lobby alone is worth seeing, with Italian marble, Venetian chandeliers, and furniture that belongs in a palace. The spa is exceptional, and the Italian restaurant on the ground floor serves the best pasta I have had in Southeast Asia.