Da Nang: Beach City with a Mountain Soul

I did not plan to fall for Da Nang. It was supposed to be a transit stop—a convenient airport between Hoi An and Hue, a place to sleep before moving on. Instead, I stayed for eight days, extended my trip twice, and left with a genuine conviction that Da Nang is Vietnam’s most underrated city. The moment that hooked me was standing on the riverfront on a Saturday night, watching a 600-meter-long dragon-shaped bridge shoot actual fire from its mouth while thousands of locals cheered and popped open beers. I thought: what kind of city builds a bridge shaped like a dragon and then makes it breathe fire on weekends? The answer is a city with ambition, humor, and a deep understanding that life should be fun.

Da Nang occupies a spectacular position on the central coast, squeezed between the Han River and the South China Sea, with the Marble Mountains rising to the south and the Hai Van Pass curving dramatically to the north. The beach that runs along the city’s eastern edge—My Khe, once famous as an R&R destination for American soldiers—stretches for kilometers of white sand, and on weekday mornings I often had hundred-meter stretches to myself. Behind the beach, the city is clean, modern, and well-organized in a way that surprises travelers accustomed to the gorgeous chaos of Hanoi and Saigon.

What caught me off guard was the food. Da Nang does not have the international reputation of Hanoi or Ho Chi Minh City, but its local specialties are exceptional. Mi quang—a turmeric-colored noodle dish with shrimp, pork, herbs, and just a splash of rich broth—became my obsession. I ate it every single day, sometimes twice, at different stalls across the city, and each version was slightly different and equally excellent. Banh xeo (crispy Vietnamese crepes) are a Da Nang staple, served at specialized restaurants where the sound of sizzling batter fills the room. And the seafood here is some of the freshest and cheapest I found anywhere in Vietnam, sold at beachfront restaurants where you choose your fish from tanks and pay by weight.

The city also serves as the perfect base for exploring central Vietnam’s highlights. Hoi An is a 30-minute drive south. Hue is two and a half hours north via the spectacular Hai Van Pass—one of the most scenic drives in Southeast Asia. Ba Na Hills and the famous Golden Bridge are a 45-minute drive into the mountains. I used Da Nang as my anchor for ten days of central Vietnam exploration and never felt the need to relocate my base.

Beyond the practical advantages, Da Nang has an energy that is distinctly its own. It is a city that is actively becoming—new restaurants open weekly, the skyline changes monthly, and there is a palpable sense of optimism. Young Vietnamese professionals are moving here from Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City for the quality of life: beach access, lower costs, less traffic, cleaner air. That influx of energy makes Da Nang feel dynamic without being overwhelming. It is big enough to have everything you need and small enough to feel manageable. I found my favorite mi quang stall on day two and the owner recognized me by day four. That kind of connection is harder to find in the megacities.

What Makes Da Nang Different

Most Vietnamese cities force you to choose: beach or culture, modern comfort or traditional charm. Da Nang refuses the trade-off. In a single day, I swam at My Khe Beach, climbed through the caves and pagodas of the Marble Mountains, ate mi quang at a street stall that has been operating since the 1970s, and ended the evening at a rooftop bar overlooking the Dragon Bridge. The city has the infrastructure of a modern destination—clean roads, reliable WiFi, international restaurants—while maintaining the affordability and warmth of a Vietnamese city that is not entirely dependent on tourism.

The geography helps. Da Nang is ringed by natural beauty: ocean to the east, mountains to the west and south, and the dramatic Hai Van Pass to the north. You are never more than twenty minutes from a natural wonder. I rented a motorbike one morning, rode the Hai Van Pass, descended to Lang Co Beach for lunch, and was back at my hotel pool by mid-afternoon. That kind of variety in such a compact area is rare anywhere in the world.

Things to Do in Da Nang

Watch the Dragon Bridge Breathe Fire

This is non-negotiable. Every Saturday and Sunday at 9:00 PM, the Dragon Bridge performs a 15-minute show of fire and water-breathing that draws huge crowds. Find a spot on the east bank of the Han River by 8:30 PM, grab a beer from a street vendor for 15,000 VND ($0.60), and enjoy the spectacle. It is free, absurd, and wonderful.

Visit Ba Na Hills and the Golden Bridge

The Golden Bridge—a pedestrian walkway supported by two giant stone hands—is one of Vietnam’s most photographed landmarks. Getting there involves a cable car ride that climbs over 1,400 meters and covers more than 5 kilometers, offering jaw-dropping mountain views. The park also includes a French Village, gardens, and amusement rides. Entry is 900,000 VND ($36) including the cable car. Go on a weekday and arrive early to avoid crowds.

Explore the Marble Mountains

Five limestone and marble hills south of the city, honeycombed with caves, tunnels, and Buddhist sanctuaries. Thuy Son (Water Mountain) is the most visited, with its elevator entrance (15,000 VND / $0.60) and well-maintained paths leading to stunning viewpoints and hidden pagodas. The Huyen Khong Cave, where shafts of sunlight pierce through ceiling holes, is breathtaking. Overall entry is 40,000 VND ($1.60).

Swim and Surf at My Khe Beach

This long stretch of white sand was named one of the most attractive beaches on the planet by Forbes. The swimming is excellent from May through August when seas are calm. Surfing picks up in the winter months with swells from the northeast. Sunbed rentals cost about 50,000 VND ($2), or just throw down a towel for free.

Drive the Hai Van Pass

Renting a motorbike (100,000–150,000 VND / $4–$6 per day) and riding the Hai Van Pass is one of the greatest driving experiences in Vietnam. The road climbs over a misty mountain range with panoramic views of coastline and jungle. Stop at the summit ruins for photos and continue down to Lang Co Beach for a seafood lunch. Budget a full morning.

Visit the Museum of Cham Sculpture

Da Nang sits on the site of the ancient Cham civilization, and this museum houses the world’s largest collection of Cham artifacts. The sandstone sculptures, some dating back 1,500 years, are stunning. Entry is 60,000 VND ($2.40). I found it a fascinating window into a pre-Vietnamese culture that is rarely discussed in mainstream travel guides.

Where to Eat in Da Nang

Mi Quang Ba Mua (19 Tran Binh Trong)

My personal favorite mi quang in the city. The turmeric noodles are fresh, the pork and shrimp are generous, and the accompanying rice crackers add a perfect crunch. A bowl costs 35,000 VND ($1.40). The restaurant is always packed at lunch, which is exactly the endorsement you want.

Banh Xeo Ba Duong (K280/23 Hoang Dieu)

This tiny restaurant specializes in massive, crispy banh xeo that you wrap in rice paper with fresh herbs and dip in a tangy sauce. One banh xeo costs 30,000 VND ($1.20) and is large enough to share—though I never did. The sizzle of the batter hitting the pan is a sound I associate permanently with Da Nang.

Be Man Seafood (Pham Van Dong, My Khe Beach area)

A beachside seafood restaurant where you pick your creatures from tanks and they are cooked to order. A meal for one with grilled prawns, steamed clams, and rice costs about 200,000–300,000 VND ($8–$12). I splurged on a whole grilled snapper for 350,000 VND ($14) and it was the best fish I ate in Vietnam.

Bun Thit Nuong Ba Ty (Nguyen Chi Thanh)

Bun thit nuong (grilled pork over vermicelli noodles) done to perfection. The pork is smoky and slightly sweet, the herbs are piled high, and the nuoc cham (dipping sauce) ties everything together. A bowl costs 35,000 VND ($1.40). Simple, satisfying, and exactly what I craved after a morning at the beach.

Hai San Phuong (Hoang Sa Seafood Strip)

The Hoang Sa strip along the beach is lined with seafood restaurants, and this one stood out for its quality and fair pricing. Grilled scallops with peanuts and scallion oil cost 80,000 VND ($3.20) for a generous portion. I brought a friend and we ordered seven dishes for 500,000 VND ($20) total—an absurd amount of food.

Where to Stay in Da Nang

Budget: Memory Hostel ($8–$15/night)

A clean, well-run hostel in the city center with dorm beds from 200,000 VND ($8). The common area is great for meeting other travelers and the staff organize regular social events. It is a short walk to the riverfront and the Dragon Bridge.

Mid-Range: A La Carte Da Nang Beach ($50–$90/night)

My top pick. Right on My Khe Beach, with an infinity pool, ocean-view rooms, and a breakfast buffet that rivals hotels twice the price. The beach access sold me—I walked out the door, crossed the street, and was on the sand in under a minute.

Luxury: InterContinental Da Nang Sun Peninsula ($150–$400/night)

Nestled into the hillside of Son Tra Peninsula, this resort is an architectural marvel designed by Bill Bensley. The setting is extraordinary—private beach, jungle views, and a sense of isolation despite being 20 minutes from the city. If I were planning a special occasion trip, this would be my choice.